DIGITAL 3D-PICTURES HOW TO DO IT

So now you want to know how I did it ?
Okay I only know the basic principles of 3D-photography or also called stereo photography.
In the world of chemical cameras its known for well over a hundred years and also in movies it was used (without a final breaktrough yet - does anybody remember B-type movies from the fiftys like "The Creature from the Black Lagoon" - and the fancy green/red viewing glasses ?).
They even tried it on TV.
A modern version working in full color is used for "Captain E.O." which can be viewed at Disneyland.
However the object is always the same to get the 3D-effect, you have to simulate human two eyed viewing by taking two pictures of the same motive from slightly different positions.
To view 3D-pictures you have to feed the two images seperately to the left and to the right eye, the brain (your bio chips) transforms this information into a realistic three dimensional picture.
To seperate the two pictures in the early times they used stereoscopes as viewing aids to view two paperprints or transparencys side by side.
With the side by side picture technique and some "staring and trying" you get the same result without any equipment.
Other techniques include the red/green filters, polarisation filters or high-tech shutter glasses.

To take a picture with your MAVICA first focus your object in the middle of your LCD screen, so that there is some space left to the left and to the right and keep that as your "center position".
Focus now and "freeze" the focus by switching to manual.
Slide your camera a little bit to the left (thats the "stereo offset") and take your first picture, go back to center position and slide it the same offset amount to the right and take your second picture.
The offset to choose depends on what you are doing.
With macro shots take a small offset, wide angle and zoom need a larger one.
I can not give you a calculation formula yet, you just have to try.
The technical information given on the two pics may give you a hint.

Now your photosoftware comes to work. Be shure to keep the order as follows - as you are reading from left to right the first picture is for the left eye, produced by the stereo offset to your left and this must be on the left side of your ready 3D-picture !
Load in the two pics from the disk and stitch them together side by side.
Save the resulting image as BMP and then do what ever you need to do improving the picture, at least you need to resample or resize it to fit the screen.
Bingo, thats it !

As additional equipment I use a NOVOFLEX macro slider, which is also very useful for macro shots to do the fine tuning for image size and focus.
If you buy a macro slider be shure to get one which is not just "sliding" but where you are moving the thing back and for (or left and right) by turning a knob.
The first macro slider I got was a "just slider" type, in spite the fact the guy in the photo shop ordering that for me called up the manufacturer to make shure, that it is not a "just slider".
So I had to return it and wait another several weeks for the "real McCoy", which was also much more expensive.
The NOVOFLEX I have cost me about US-$ 160.00 (in Germany) however it seems to be made to last for ever.
You may combine it with a second unit to get a "cross slider".
If you want to do 3D the right way you will need such a thing sooner or later, and as I already mentioned its also very useful taking macros.
However if you just want to try, slide your MAVICA on a table and use a ruler for marks, it should work too.

my NOVOFLEX macro slider	detail of the mechanic
made for ever	2x macro lense from RAYNOX

Unfortunately I can not show you the whole set up with my MAVICA on it, as for that purpose I would need a second one....

UNDER FURTHER CONSTRUCTION !

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last time edited 19.03.99

The first 3D-picture (the crystal)

Another 3D-picture

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DIGITAL 3D-PICTURES - HOW TO DO IT